In this post I am going to list the tools and parts you'll need to install a Webasto Gasoline Heater in a RAM Promaster. In the video I show you step by step how we installed ours. The heater doesn't come with instructions. I personally love to figure things out on the fly, so, this video shows exactly that. Me figuring this thing out. I've helped install the Chinese diesel heaters and the installation here can be applied to any of those installations, too. They are essentially the same.
The other thing in this post I am going to give you, since the video is a step by step instructional, are some essential highlights not to forget while installing this.
Remember: Installing a Webasto yourself may VOID the warranty. If you are confident in your abilities, are comfortable working with fuel lines, and are willing to take that risk, go for it. It is a fun installation and a game changing upgrade.
Of course some of the tools needed to take out the seats, etc. are going to be different depending on the vehicle. This is the list of all tools used in the Promaster install. I'll label the Promaster specific tools & parts.
Also, here is a link to the place we got ours. It is an awesome deal! Definitely worth checking out: https://www.heatso.com/webasto-air-top-2000-stc-gasoline-heater-kit-12v/
Tools you'll need:
T20 Torx Driver (Promaster - this may only be for bench seat installations)
Phillips head & flat head screwdriver
10mm & 11mm wrench
13mm socket wrench (Promaster - for heat shield)
18mm socket wrench (Promaster - for front seat)
1/4" drill bit
3/8" drill bit
1 inch paddle or hole saw bit
2 1/2" hole saw bit
Metal file (in case you need to file the holes in the floor a bit to get the heater into place)
Parts you'll need:
Rustoleum or any kind of anti rust paint
Fuel pump fitting - Dorman 800-123 Bundy Fuel Line connector (Promaster)
2 1/2" hose clamps
Parts Needed for Goal Zero Installation:
Key Points of the installation:
Removing the seats:
If you are removing the seats to install your heater in the Promaster make sure you disconnect the negative side battery cable before disconnecting any of the electrical connections under the seat just to ensure there is no electricity going to the airbags. It is just two bolts in the front. After taking the bolts out with an 18mm socket wrench. Slide the seat forward and lift it out. We opted to leave our seat in because it is a full bench seat.
Removing the heat shield:
I would get this part out of the way before drilling your holes through the floor if this is going to be the placement for your heater. Using a 13mm socket wrench you will take out four bolts and with a little finesse and bending you can get it out no problem. Honestly getting the heat shield in and out was probably the biggest pain in the ass of the whole install for me.
Using the fuel pump fitting:
The Dorman fuel line connector is an awesome adapter that is made for the port on the fuel pump to tap fuel from the tank.
Our friend Dave from OneAdVANtureataTime brought this to my attention and I would've LOVED to have had this for our install. You can use fuel hose straight to the port as you can see in the video, but, it isn't as clean & pretty as you can see in the video. I would recommend this part to anyone installing a heater. Thanks Dave! Check out their install video here for more ideas and tips.
Priming the fuel pump:
You DO NOT have to syphon any gas through the lines! I just like doing ridiculous shit. All you have to do is put the lines together and run it. You may have to cycle the heater a couple times before it fires up, so, if it doesn't run heat within the first 4 or 5 times the pump may be installed the wrong way. You will know the pump is working by the ticking sound it puts out. The good thing about syphoning is that it will fire up within the first or second time cycling.
Wrapping the wires and fuel line
When I ran the fuel line and wires above the heat shield under neath the van I also added an extra wrap of plastic tubing around them both just for added protection against heat. The heat shield alone will be enough protection. I just wanted to put that added bit of buffer from the heat.
Goal Zero Essential Part:
If you are running your heater off of a Goal Zero this is an absolute necessity. I cannot stress this enough. When we ran our heater off of the Goal Zero without this attachment it couldn't get through the initial firing up phase below 92% battery capacity.
Double Pole Double Throw Switch (Optional):
The double pole double throw switch is just a really cool option to have if you're running your heater off of a goal zero. We've had many times where we had to conserve electricity, so, I installed this optional switch so I had the option to draw power from the vehicle battery because the vehicles battery will charge a hell of a lot faster than our Goal Zero battery will off the alternator. It's just a really nice option to have for peace of mind.
I hope this covers everything that wasn't covered in the video and I hope you enjoyed the video. Stay warm and safe travels.